Weighted Bolster Pillow.

Learning to make Idrija Narrow Lace from a person who knows this specific lace intimately has been quite an eye opener.  It appears to be a simple lace, but looks can be deceptive.  The techniques needed to make this lace, and many similar tape laces, are different to the more intricate laces I am used to, such as Bedfordshire, Cluny and Torchon. 

The biggest difference is the number of pairs used, starting at only 5 pairs for Idrija.  This means that this lace has to solve issues like pointed corners, curves, joins and crossings, without the option of having many pairs of bobbins to play with.

Putting the technical lace making bit aside for now, this tape lace is traditionally made on a bolster pillow, though to start you can use a cookie pillow, it doesn't take much to make a bolster.

I don't have the option to make sawdust or straw bolster pillows, much as I would have liked to, so I turned to what was available. 

I found an ethafoam exercise roll (15 cms x 30 cms) was an ideal size, but was too lightweight to tension the threads properly because it kept being pulled around the table!  Idrija lace needs strong tensioning, and the thread used is stronger than normal lace thread of the same size to allow for the enthusiastic pulling about. 

I ordered an exercise roll, with a hole down the center.  Unfortunately I ordered a polystyrene one instead of ethafoam, a casualty of online poor photo and description.  This would only last a few patterns before the pins would start to destroy the little beads which make polystyrene foam.   The weighted ethafoam pillow I already use only had a couple of wraps of boiled blanket and works well but the polystyrene pillow would need to avoid having pins in it so I needed at least 2-3cm thickness of wool 

A wider diameter pillow would accomodate larger patterns, so I went ahead and sacrificed a well washed quality wool blanket.  I cut this into long strips a little wider than the bolster, machine sewed each strip using a zigzag stitch to make one long strip.  To keep the tension nice and tight, I stood on the other end of the blanket as I rolled it around the bolster.  

The blanket edge was pinned and a running blanket stitch taken across to hold it in place.  I could have placed extra layers of a finer wool felt over the top, but I wanted to make sure that this would work as a pillow first.  I can always go back and add or change layers as long as the foam in the center is unharmed.

To weight the bolster, I cut 4cm strips of left over blanket, but have used cardboard before, wound

tightly to fit like a cork into each end.  Place the first one, glue if you wish, and fill the core with your chosen ballast.  

I chose a load of glass bugle (tube) beads which had sharp ends and had proved impossible to use in my lace because the sharp glass edges kept cutting the threads.  If nothing else, I had found a use for them! 

 Anything will do to weight the pillow, pebbles, beads, spoons, as long as they are secure and evenly distributed.  Aim for 1-2 kilos finished weight.    I popped the other cardboard cork into the other end.  I cut two discs from some old yoga mat to fit over the ends, either glue or temporarily hold in place using pearl head pins, I pinned these in place and got on with the top cover. I didn't use glue in case I want to remake this. 

The cover is measured circumferance plus 5cm and the width is measured center to center of the diameter.   The center to center edges are folded over about 2-3 cm and sewn along the edge, making a channel to thread a ribbon through after the fabric is fixed to the bolster. Check your channels don't meet at the ends, they need to be tensioned with the ribbon at the end so you need an inch or two to pull the fabric in tight. 

I like a plain fabric, often navy or deep mauve, but many people like to use fancy patterns on their fabric which would distract me so much, but its always fun to see on other peoples bright pillows.

Iron or thumb press an inward facing fold about 2-3 cm from one end.  Pin the unfolded end across the bolster to create the starting edge. Wrap the fabric around, stroking it to get it as tight as possible, then pin the folded edge over the start edge.   Make a running, or ladder stitch across the bolster to join the two, don't worry if you take up a little blanket with the cotton cover.  

Thread some fine ribbon, or string, into the longest needle you have, or a safety pin, or other handy gadget.  Using the eye end, insert into one end of the sewn channel and gently feed it all the way through. Remove the pins holding the yoga mat disc in place.  I like to tie a knot and cut the ribbon off, so I can do both ends with the minumum of ribbon used. 

I didn't worry too much about trimming the edge of the blanket, I like that it gives softer edges if it isn't too precise.

This is just one way of making a weighted bolster pillow, using items to hand or easy to source.  I never make a pillow the same way twice!

Boiled wool blanket-  an old, thick wool blanket literally put through a boil, or hot wash at least once.  It will felt up and shrink, making a dense, heavy fabric.  If the blanket is too thin, or contains manmade fibres, it won't felt up.   I know people have used acrylic fleece and are happy with the results, so do feel free to experiment.   

Test the 'pin-ability' of your chosen materials by wrapping a cotton cloth around a ball of fleece/wool and see how a pin will hold if you are tensioning a thread against it. 

Darling Dearest Cat

This design is inspired by Bastet, an Egyptian goddess who was depicted as a cat.  This one prefers to sit around practicing her imperious look and air of disdain...yes, she still thinks she is a goddess!

Size 16cm high . Approx 34 pairs gold colour cotton thread 27-30wpc, 4 pairs Goldrush Metallised  (trails). 1 pair Gutermann glitter thread (changes colour for each tally)   Techniques - square tallies, leaf tallies, adding colour, planning ahead.  The order of the ‘gems’ will alter as piece it turned over.

I often suggest that the lacemaker may like to choose different techniques than those I have used.   I see this as part of the fun of making lace.   Sometimes, there are better ways of working some areas than shown in the photograph of my finished piece, which is often the only one I have made.  

The designs I make are from my own drawings first, then I have to make the lace fit the drawing so I sometime have to mix up lace styles and use my 'Muaiga' style lace making where I Make It Up As I Go Along.   Maybe I should do that in gem tallies....😁

This pattern is not really suitable for beginners.

I struggled, due to my lack of experience, with the intricacies in the first version of this pattern which I first made back in 2021.  Armed with a little more experience, I decided to have another go in 2026.  

'Darling Dearest Cat' hides within the jewels, a hidden acrostic message.  Acrostic rings were developed in France in the early 19th century using the initials of gemstones to spell out a word.  Acrostic jewellery is often given as a romantic gift or to form a secret message. Several different gemstones can used for the same letter to avoid repetition of a colour. 

I started off with the word 'Darling', only to find that this is not one of the usual acrostic words so I had to use a bit of imagination, and the help of the Bobbin Lace Along Zoom group,  to find the jewels and create the colours available in limited range of glitter threads to match the initials.  The iolite had to be made with the blue and purple glitter threads worked together to make it different to the amethyst and lapis lazuli threads.

Darling = Diamond, Amethyst, Ruby, Lapis lazuli, Iolite, Nephrite (jade), Garnet.

Dearest = Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Topaz.

Cat = Citrine, Amethyst, Topaz (blue)

Because cats do not always respond to being enthusiastically fussed, I also used a cat language acrostic.  

Sssss = Sapphire, Sapphire, Sapphire, Sapphire, Sapphire, as a warning hiss!

I used a selection of threads, the thick glitter variegated gold/black passive in the trails and edges was an unlabelled crochet thread.  The jewels were Gutermann Sulky glitter threads, the cotton making most of the background was an old Dewhurst's Sylco cotton in 'Mustard Gold'.     I couldn't use the magic thread on the tallies to pull the ends back up through the tally because the glitter thread is too 'grabby' but it can simply be cut off at the end and, unless you intend to wash and wear the cat, it does hold without knotting. 

The copper dots on the back leg use a pair of glitter threads as the worker, the centers have some twists on the workers to ensure the ground is solid around the edges. 

I used black Gutermann glitter thread to make the tally of the eye, just before removing from the pillow, anchoring a short plait before and after the tally to make a more stylized eye.

To finish on the scroll of the tail, I used a Bruges technique where one passive pair loops around each center worker instead of using a pin.  This pair tightens up and I then used it to make a bundle with the remaining threads and stitched it to the back of the piece, out of sight.   

The thick gimp threads in the collars were simply cut off, the glitter helps to hold the thick thread in place and avoids the need for knots. 

The earring was made separately after the cat was removed from the pillow.  This is because it needs putting on and sewing closed at the back of the ear.  I used 3 passives in mustard gold cotton, with Lurex gold thread used as a worker. As the earring widened, I introduced twists to the Lurex worker only to make as much shine as possible.  I would be tempted to try a pin under four (2pair) edge if I made it again to increase the gold.  

Did you spot this?  My darling dearest husband asked if the cat was pointing the right way.  To my dismay, I had forgotten that the piece would need turning over to leave the knots and cut ends out of sight so the 'wrong side' is actually the side where 'Darling' is spelled the right way around.  The order of the collar tallies should be reversed.  For someone who professes no interest at all in my lace making, he is remarkable observant!

The thread I used may be hard to find!

The downloadable .pdf pattern sheet is in the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

The A4 .jpeg can be copied from here, or my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

Please always respect the copyright of the designer.

This pattern must only be shared in its original form and cannot be sold.

If you wish to teach from this, or any other of my free patterns, please ask for permission first.

If you wish to include any of my patterns in group news letters or magazines, please ask first, and let me have a copy for my records.

Have fun!

Butterfly Bouquet

A Butterfly Bouquet, four hearts filled with flowers.

This is my original Hearts and Flowers butterfly, redrawn and released for all to make.  I do love seeing my designs made by other lace makers so don't be shy, just post them on my Lesley's Lace Facebook page for me to see.

Hearts and Flowers Butterfly

Four hearts make up the wings, filled with plaited and cloth stitch trails and leaf tallies which call for some planning ahead.  Threads can be hidden inside tallies, change a plait to a whipped bundle, or carry threads along in the cloth stitch trails.  This is not a beginner pattern!

The butterfly starts at the two leaf tallies of the antennae, working down the body and finishing at the tail, then work the wings.  I have marked some places to add pairs, but throughout the piece, you will decide which direction, and where you add/carry pairs. 

Suggestions on working the wings.

Each heart section could be made individiually and sewn into the trail edge.  I chose to make the two hearts together on each side so I could simply cross the plaits over the trail between the top and bottom hearts.

The first (and only) one of these I made used 80 pairs because I added all the bobbins on both sides of the body when I started.  Of course, this meant I had to work around a pile of waiting bobbins till I finished the first side, so I would suggest making one side first, maybe making use of some magic threads ready to make adding the pairs to the other side of the body a bit easier as they are quite tight together.  I would suggest winding bobbins in your choice of colours as needed if you are short of thread or bobbins.  Some bobbins may be taken out and added back in at a different place during the piece. 

Joining new pairs to the body

The downloadable .pdf pattern sheet is in the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

The A4 .jpeg can be copied from here, or my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

Please always respect the copyright of the designer.

This pattern must only be shared in its original form and cannot be sold.

If you wish to teach from this, or any other of my free patterns, please ask for permission first.

If you wish to include any of my patterns in group news letters or magazines, please ask first, and let me have a copy for my records.

Have fun!

  

Now a bonus for reading so far, an extra pattern of a Flower filled heart which is created from one of the wings.  Thank you for your interest in my designs.  It will be interesting to see how many people actually post their Flower Filled Hearts on my Lesley's Lace page!

Butterfly Bouquet with bonus Flower Filled Heart

Wriggley Rooster

Wriggley Rooster only uses 7 pairs, but features 13 different threads! I wanted to make the changing colours of a well cared for rooster, with flashes of gold and green in body and tail, and in the bright red of his comb.  I had to resort to my own 'Muaiga' style of lace making to create the barbs in the tail. 

Muaiga = Made Up As I Go Along

It's tiring work being this fancy!

The wing was made first, then the body and tail feathers, which are worked in one trail. Start underneath the beak.  I changed the colours for the tail feathers by laying in green/blue threads as  orange/yellows were left out.  I chose not to tie new threads in, because I wanted the transition to be more gentle so I ran the in and out threads side by side for a cm or so.  Many of the threads were, conveniently, left on bobbins from previous projects but these are the actual threads used just for information, the choice of thread and colour is totally your own choice.  Do not use me as an excuse to go on a mad, thread buying spree!

Threads used!

I used some vintage Bayeau bobbins which were heavily carved on the body.  Although the weight and size were ideal, the threads did rub against the carvings when feeding through loops. This made me think these were not ideal for laces which have lots of sewings, no matter how pretty they are. 

Option 1 Foot - The foot was added at the base of the body, worked out to the furthest toe with the upper edge having  an outside pin (pin under 4) edge.   To return for the other toes, I laid back the thicker glitter threads, leaving them still joined, and used a rolled edge to take the pairs for the trail back to the middle. At the turn, I added the glitter threads back into the work by laying them randomly between the pairs.  A holding pin an inch away from the foot held the glitter threads in the right direction for laying back in.

Option 2 Foot - The foot could be made more easily by making the full length, finishing, then add a 'V' trail to make the two toes sticking up. 

Option 3 Foot - Don't make one!  Wriggley Rooster is quite happy just sitting with his feet tucked underneath him!

The feathers have a picot on the upper edge and have very close joining bars before the sharp corner.  I used the sharp corner technique shown in Idrija lace. 

The center of the feathers could be left open, strengthened with a  few well placed bars, or filled with your own choice of stitches. 

Option - The rachis and barbs of the feathers are made with two pairs. I used one glitter thread pair and one pair of joined blue and green cotton.  Start by adding a pair at each side near the body, join with ctc pin ctc.  Take one bobbin each of a glitter and a cotton (may need to play with the cross and twists to make this work).  These  are twisted till they reach a suitable edge pin.  (I used 6-8 twists).   Make the sewing as normal. Some pins on the larger outside curve will need to be missed to keep the barbs even.  Be careful with the glitter thread, it can be a bit 'grabby' and can split easily if the crochet hook catches it wrong.

False Plait

To return to the center, twist pair twice, make a sewing around the outgoing twisted threads, twist two or three times and tension towards the center.  This is called a 'false plait' and avoids the barb threads being single long twists which often get wobbly off the pillow. 

Make a whole stitch (ctct) with the other pair, make fa;se plait to the opposite suitable pin and repeat the false plait.  On returning to the center, make a ctc pin ctc with both pairs and repeat.  Some places may need an extra ct to keep the center rachis the right length.  

When the piece is off the pillow, turn over to the right side and sew on a bead, or tiny sequin for the eye.  

The downloadable .pdf pattern sheet is in the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

The A4 .jpeg can be copied from here, or my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

Please always respect the copyright of the designer.

This pattern must only be shared in its original form and cannot be sold.

If you wish to teach from this, or any other of my free patterns, please ask for permission first.

If you wish to include any of my patterns in group news letters or magazines, please ask first, and let me have a copy for my records.

Have fun!

Masquerade Butterfly

The formal definition of a masquerade quoted from Oxford Languages is “a false show or pretense”, the eleborate masks being a fanciful ruse to allow flirtatious behaviour on the thin excuse that the participants were not recognisable.  

Made using several Idrija, and some non Idrija techniques, this Masquerade Butterfly can also be made as a fancy dress mask by missing out just the last of the center swirls by making the turning point earlier in the trails. 

The first test making of a pattern I have drawn is usually in white. I experimented with slightly different techniques on each side, the pricking has been made using the best solution.

 I would love to see this made with colours, golds, sequins, beads,wired edges, even adding feathers!  Please post your finished Masquerade Butterflies on my Lesley's Lace Facebook page. 

Showing picot and non picot edges, a waisted half stitch and a non waisted half stitch along the tops of the wings. 

I chose to make the half stitch sections with two passives on each side, adding in two extra pairs into the cloth stitch trail as it widens, then making the center two in half stitch.  Add a twist to the worker before entering the half stitch pairs.  

The fancy corners are where I experimented with different ways of making them, I would recommend choosing one method throughout.  

Pricking with grey undertone to guide around the maze

The inside of the curves on the tighter swirls were made using the simple turning stitch of leaving the worker aside with a twist added and using the last passive worked as the new worker, swapping over in the same manner at each turn unless there is a bar to be made.  There is no pin used on a turning stitch. 

I added the extra pairs by tying two leftover bobbins together and pinning the knot away from the work, lay each thread on each side of a passive.  Leave the pin in at the knot, you don't want to risk pulling these pairs untill safely worked into the lace.   The added pairs can be knotted before cutting off afterwards if you wish. 

The pairs are worked as cloth stitch as the trail narrows, being taken out as alternate threads and can be knotted if you wish before being cut off. 

Pairs which are joined, can be added in whatever manner you choose, if you want this to be an Idrija style piece, follow the instructions of the Idrija Lace School.

The half stitch sections only need two extra pairs. you can add more if you want a more dense half stitch section. The edge stitch you choose will alter the stability of the lace but you could use wire around the edges.  Remember to take out the same amount of pairs as you added in. 

The downloadable .pdf pattern sheet is in the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

The A4 .jpeg can be copied from here, or my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

Please always respect the copyright of the designer.

This pattern must only be shared in its original form and cannot be sold.

If you wish to teach from this, or any other of my free patterns, please ask for permission first.

If you wish to include any of my patterns in group news letters or magazines, please ask first, and let me have a copy for my records.

Have fun!

Lotus Flower

A fellow bobbin lace maker, Pam Crouch, was gifted some Lotus thread and she wanted to make a bobbin lace lotus flower with some of it as a thank you gift in return.    This thread is not an ideal material for bobbin lace, it is made of long, super fine, fluffy fibres, and mainly used to weave fabric, and proved to be problematic to wind onto a bobbin.  The original idea was to make the whole piece in lotus thread, but this proved impossible.  We created this pattern so that the unwieldy threads could be used as passives (warp) and a cotton thread used as the worker (weft).  

Pam's Lotus flower using Lotus Thread as a thick passive thread. 

This pattern was made first as a lotus flower motif, then again attached inside a bangle which helped to maintain the structure of the lace without having to use stiffener on this delicate thread.   

To create 25 kg of silk thread takes 100 tons of lotus stem. Unlike real silk, which is a protein fiber,  lotus silk is a cellulose plant fiber.  Lotus silk was first used to weave monastic robes as an offering to Buddha images or Buddhist monks, but is now also used for a variety of clothing.  Due to the complexity and labor-intensive nature of weaving lotus fibers, lotus silk is considered one of the most expensive fabrics in the world.

Lotus thread next to a 30wpc cotton thread. 

It was only when I was designing that I saw how much like a bug it looked when turned upside down so I call it my Lotus Flower Bug. A couple of big sequins for eyes would completely change the look of this piece of lace from a delicate flower to a fun insect.  Now I have thought it, I cannot unsee the bug!

My own making of the Lotus Flower, using cotton thread and beads. 

The sharp eyed amongst you may also see the where the idea for the Swirly Turtle design started!

The .pdf is available to download from my Lesley's Lace facebook page in the Files tab. 

Mildred the Magnificent

Mildred the Magnificent is a Winged Serpent, known down the ages for being magical, intelligent, dangerous creatures, often found guarding treasure.  Mildred, however, prefers to spend her time learning to crochet and making her own bread.

 Mildred the Magnificent

The reworked pricking does have some changes from the original photograph.

The coloured, numbered trail diagram shows how I made this design.  It will not be the only way.  I work on my original line drawing, placing the pins as I work.  These are not necessarily the only way the pattern works, so do feel free to alter how you make the points, and move any bars or pins to where you feel may work better.

Suggested order of working

Five pairs only used for the whole design, though you may wish to make the outside edges with an outside pin (pin under 4) using an extra pair.    The center band of half stitch can be replaced with any filling of your choice, there are some lovely Milanese braids which would look lovely here.  I made the two 5 pair trails and sewed the half stitch center in afterwards. See the coloured diagram for the order of work.  I would be tempted to use 15 pairs and work the trails and half stitch together in one go. 

Suggested workings.  

I played about with the points, finding that most of them can be made with the 'double double' sharp point technique, (Idrija = sharp point using two sewings and two turning stitch passives).  The Idrija technique for making asymmetrical points will work nicely here too.  

The wings are made with the center trails first, then the outside edge to avoid working over the pins.  The position and number of bars can alter the narrow areas between the wing trails, use the minimum to create a dark space between trails, add more bars to fill in spaces between bars.  Compare the plume on the head to see a trail shape filled with bars, and the cheek with no bars. 

The downloadable .pdf pattern sheet is in the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

The A4 .jpeg can be copied from here, or my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

Please always respect the copyright of the designer.

This pattern must only be shared in its original form and cannot be sold.

If you wish to teach from this, or any other of my free patterns, please ask for permission first.

If you wish to include any of my patterns in group news letters or magazines, please ask first, and let me have a copy for my records.

Have fun!

Threads Review. DMC and Cantu

I tested two different threads, and two different styles of bobbins on these free egg Idrija Lace patterns by Tina Koder Grajzar created for the Festival idrijske čipke - Idrija Lace Festival

The left side egg, the flowery one, is made with DMC Cordonnet Special no 70 which tested at the same wraps per centimeter as the Idrija 30 thread. Designed for crochet rather than bobbin lace, it is a firm thread, maybe too round to create the blending of the fibers in the trails, the individual threads were noticeable compared to the Idrija thread which snuggles up nicely and leaves few gaps.

The Cantu thread making the leaf design egg is one often used for tape laces. Made by Coats, it tested at the identical 30 wpc. The twist on this thread is the opposite way, which meant it should have been wound onto the bobbins anticlockwise and the cross twist cross would be worked as twist cross, twist. I wound clockwise and used ctc as I normally do, the threads wanted to either undo from the bobbin, or didn't release to let out more thread. Again, not as willing to sit without space, being a slightly rounder thread.

I also experimented with the bobbins on the left, about the same size, maybe a little heavier than the 13.5cm Idrija bobbins I like to use but, despite the decorative turning on the whole length of the handle, they worked well and reassured me that it is not vital to have the correct bobbin for each style of lace (just an excuse to get more bobbins!)

The pattern is available on the Idrija Lace Festival facebook page Festival idrijske čipke - Idrija Lace Festival

Wriggly Bauble

Inspired by the Idrija Lace School's first book, I used some of the techniques I learned in this Wriggly Bauble design.  The first technique was a curve, so I used that for nearly all of this design.  

The outline for this design is the same as previous baubles I have released as patterns, I just redesigned the centre area. 

Eight threads laid side by side should fit inside the lines.  If you choose a sparkle (thicker) pair, place them in the center, 3 passives, 2 sparkle, 3 passives.  The outer edge pairs all turn into workers at some point so keep these the same. 

The tail of this one is new, instead of sewing the ends to the start, I moved the join to the bottom point of the outer edge which is made last.  Pin the threads 3 inches away from the start pins and work around to the same point where you cut the bobbins off with 3 inches of thread left on the pillow.  Use whichever method you prefer to tie the two lots of thread together to make a tassell, add beads, ribbon, more threads, whatever you like. 

The little seed beads around the edges and the centre beads need to be smaller than the width of the bar they sit on.  I made a video on how to add them.  You do not need to add these beads, just make the bars in the usual way.   

To make the bar to fit a bead I altered the joining point.  Add twists to reach the other side of the bar, not just the centre. On reaching the opposite side of the bar, I placed a magic thread loop into the finished bar, added the bead onto the magic threads, pushed it onto the bar, fed a loop of the worker into the loop of the magic thread and drew it through the end of the bar, above the bead.  Feed the waiting worker bobbin through the other worker bobbin loop and tension as shown in the video.

The bars are usually made by putting enough twists on the worker to reach half way across the bar, place a pin, tension, add the same number of twists and return to the trail.  When reaching the other side of the trail,  add the same number of twists, remove the pin, sew into the previous bar, add same number of twists and continue the trail without replacing the pin.    

https://youtu.be/dDgbyA3Wllc?si=LDJrNN3AqAEsHLHO

The insides of the curves are not pinned, they use a simple turning stitch which swaps the worker with the last passive.  The working pair which is left behind is given a single twist.  Be careful not to pull the curve out of shape by tensioning too fiercely at the pin or bars at the outer edge.  I made a video on how to make these curves.

https://youtu.be/70PDKoBazF0?si=rfj1fcMMXMhcHV1p

The downloadable .pdf pattern sheet is in the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

The A4 .jpeg can be copied from here, or my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

Please always respect the copyright of the designer.

This pattern must only be shared in its original form and cannot be sold.

If you wish to teach from this, or any other of my free patterns, please ask for permission first.

If you wish to include any of my patterns in group news letters or magazines, please ask first, and let me have a copy for my records.

Have fun!

 

Sequins Between Trails

Placing sequins between two narrow trails creates a much wider edge with a lot of sparkle.

Video here   Sequin Edge in Bobbin Lace
This is a slightly different way of adding the sequins between two paralell trails to make a sparkly edge. The vertical pair stay in the center, so a feature colour can be used to go down the middle of the sequins. The horizontal pair work across the sequins, being taking into the trails at each side in turn and worked along with the passives until the next horizontal pair is needed. The extra pair worked along with the passives does not make much difference visually but it is suggested that it is the same colour as the trails, unless you wish to make a feature of the crenellated effect that the journey of the horizontal pairs makes.

This is the alternative, and more common way of adding sequins in an edge, with the pairs working diagonally and just bouncing off the trail edges. Details and video in earlier posts.

The downloadable .pdf pattern sheet is in the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

The A4 .jpeg can be copied from here, or my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

Please always respect the copyright of the designer.

This pattern must only be shared in its original form and cannot be sold.

If you wish to teach from this, or any other of my free patterns, please ask for permission first.

If you wish to include any of my patterns in group news letters or magazines, please ask first, and let me have a copy for my records.

Have fun!

Spring Leaves Bookmark

Spring Leaves is an older pattern I created back in 2022.  I recently came across it again as an unworked drawing and wondered why I hadn't already made it.   Bobbins were wound and pillow prepared, but as I was figuring out how to lay the threads in, I had a distinct feeling of déjà vu.  I searched through my lace folders and found I had already made the bookmark! 

EDIT    When I posted the video and pattern this time, I followed a suggestion to start at the bottom rather than the top of the bookmark, it looked like it would be easier for people not familiar with my mixed laces method.  Unfortunately, this did not work, the flow is correct when worked from the top, with the curved trail being added and worked in two directions.   

I start this bookmark with a two pair edge which has several names - 'pin under four' or 'outside edge' or 'two pair edge'. This is worked in two directions on this piece. This edge can be changed to a standard two twists around the pin if you choose. The coloured passives are kept to the outside of the trail, this is to allow the pairs from the ground to add in, take out, bounce off the sides, or be carried along with the passives.

For the .pdf pattern, go to my facebook page 'Lesley's Lace' and look in the Files tab. 

Blossom the Whale

A new addition to the Adventurous Aquarium series of patterns, Blossom the Whale is named after the tiny flowers in the ground. 

Size 11.5cm    28 Pairs approx. + 2 pairs perle 8.  Thread DMC Broder Machine 30 (27-30wpc)  Techniques - Blossom ground,  Half stitch, cloth stitch trails, sewing bars. attach bead for eye.   Sew flipper on right side at end.  

The Blossom ground can be made using the Honiton, or Bedfordshire techniques with a 4 or 5 pin crossing. A simpler version is to make two picots on the plait before making a windmill crossing and make another two picots after the crossing on the same plait. 

Start working in both directions with the coloured Perle pairs used as extra passives.  These can be replaced with standard threads.  The crossings at the plaits could be used to add sequins if they have a decent center space for the extra thread.  The blossom ground is started first with some of the plaits being carried through the trail and used for the curves of the tummy. 

I also experimented with the same pattern by using half stitch instead of the blossom ground, and cloth stitch and twist for the tummy and tail.  Be adventurous, let me see what you make with my patterns by posting them on my Lesley's Lace Facebook page.  

Ripple Fish - Pointed Corner Technique

 Ripple Fish 

Another addition to the Adventurous Aquarium set of free patterns available on this blog, my Lesley's Lace facebook page and with a few technique videos on my YouTube channel.  The Ripple Fish uses an Idrija style corner which gives a nice strong point.  

This pattern uses one pointed corner technique on every turn.   The pointed, or acute angle corner uses two sewings and four fixing stitches (sometimes called turning stitches in some laces). A fixing stitch is shown on a pattern as a circle around a join.  A sewing is shown as a pointed thread linking to a previous thread.   The sewings use temporary pins which are not replaced after the sewing.  To make a sewing, draw the thread of one bobbin through the temporary hole using a crochet hook or similar. Pass the second bobbin through the loop of the first bobbin and draw through and snuggle up to the trail. This is shown in the YouTube video of making the Pointed Corner.   https://youtu.be/ZimQzkBlMLI

Many corners suffer with the passives pulling away from the top pin, this version uses fixing, sometimes called turning stitches at the point which fills the space and stops the threads pulling away from the pin.   If the passives feature specific colours along the trails, they will get mixed up in this technique, so, decide if you want that to be a design choice, or double up the twist in a fixing stitch to keep the passive colours in order as you work the corner.  

The open spaces in this fish can be filled with a ground of your own choice after the fish is completed.  I chose to leave them open to echo ripples of sunlight coming through the water on the fish scales. 

Download - .pdf of the pattern from the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/groups/907516516997481/

EDIT I have now added my previously gifted Seaweed patterns following requests for the background green seaweed!

The downloadable .pdf pattern sheet is in the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

The A4 .jpeg can be copied from here, or my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

Please always respect the copyright of the designer.

This pattern must only be shared in its original form and cannot be sold.

If you wish to teach from this, or any other of my free patterns, please ask for permission first.

If you wish to include any of my patterns in group news letters or magazines, please ask first, and let me have a copy for my records.

Have fun!

Wriggly Tree

This Wriggly Tree uses the simple curve technique used in Idrija Lace and other tape laces.  

The inside curves are not pinned but use a turning stitch which leaves the worker behind on the curve, with a twist on, and uses the last passive to act as a temporary worker.  Start at any point, I chose part way down the trunk for my start. 

If you choose a starting place in a busy spot, you find that the eye is drawn to the design, and the knotted ends are not as obvious as when you choose a simpler, and often easier, place where the eye is drawn to the knots. 

Originally this was designed as a Christmas tree, but lends itself to a fun way to practice making curves.  The edges can be made with a standard two twists around a pin, using 5 pairs, or using two workers which both go around the pin, changing places each time.  

The corners of the trunk, and the very tip of the tree I used a right angle corner, but these can be redrawn as curves and work the whole piece using just the one technique. 

Size 8cm.  Pairs x 5 or 6 pairs depending on edge stitch.  Thread : Idrija 30 which is a 30 wraps per centimeter  100% cotton thread. 

Techniques : Idrija Curve and a right angle corner at the top. See my Youtube channel for video on the Curve technique

More info on how to work my patterns -   https://www.youtube.com/@LesleysLace

The downloadable .pdf pattern sheet is in the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

The A4 .jpeg can be copied from here, or my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

Please always respect the copyright of the designer.

This pattern must only be shared in its original form and cannot be sold.

If you wish to teach from this, or any other of my free patterns, please ask for permission first.

If you wish to include any of my patterns in group news letters or magazines, please ask first, and let me have a copy for my records.

Have fun!

Kelpies - Mythological Shape Changing Horses.

I thought it appropriate to release my Kelpies design in the Chinese Year of the Horse.  

I am planning to make this one again, it has been some years since I made the original and I didn't make any notes!   If you are patient, there may be an updated pattern with pinholes and techniques described more fully but I wanted to get this out now, at the start of the Year of the Horse.

This Kelpie horse head trilogy pattern was inspired by the beautiful sculptures in Scotland.  Kelpies are shape changing aquatic creature who possessed the strength of ten horses.  They were chosen to honour the heavy horses which pulled canal boats, carts and even coalships. The mythology of these creatures is a little more naughty than nice but they are worth a look.  

 https://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/The-Kelpie/

There are four fillings, and you can swap them around as you wish, or simply make one to stand alone.  Each of the heads take different numbers of bobbins, and use different techniques.  Some can be made by  sewing in the fillings after the outline edges are made.  I always prefer to make a piece all at once.  

There are few pinholes marked, I have left it up to the lace maker to choose how close you wish your threads to be.  The number of passives for each trail is found simply by laying your chosen thread in pairs between the two lines.  To line up the sewings of the heads to the center, I would suggest drawing a zigzag around the edge of the center and the base of the heads to fit your choice of spacing. 

The suggested thread is approx 28 to 30 wraps per centimeter, DMC Broder Machine for example. 

The size, taken from the widest measurement which is an eartip to a mane tip is 19cm.

The center motif can be made alone, and the heads sewn in, or sewn on afterwards.  I made all 4 pieces first, finishing with the center motif still pinned to the pillow, then repinned the edge trail of the horses so I could make the sewings.  

The downloadable .pdf pattern sheet is in the Files tab on my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

The A4 .jpeg can be copied from here, or my Lesley's Lace facebook page.

Please always respect the copyright of the designer.

This pattern must only be shared in its original form and cannot be sold.

If you wish to teach from this, or any other of my free patterns, please ask for permission first.

If you wish to include any of my patterns in group news letters or magazines, please ask first, and let me have a copy for my records.

Have fun!