Bobbin Lace and Other Hobbies

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Star Cross

A challenging mix of styles for this large, ornate cross.  My drawing was an experiment with a graphics app which repeated my lines as quadrants, ie, drawing 4 tallies at once in each direction.  This was very pleasing to draw, but didn't help with the practicalities of the direction the lace needed to work. 

Measuring 28cm from top to base, I made the main section on a round pillow then moved it to a smaller block pillow to work the tail.  Worked in Empress Egyptian mercerised machine quilting cotton (28wpc) I stopped counting the pairs when I realised there were several different ways to make this which would dramatically alter the number of pairs needed. 

Star Cross

I worked towards the center. With hindsight, I see I had made things a lot harder for myself than they needed to be.  The center, apart from having to take in so many pairs, was so very cluttered by the time the third arm was made and that was when I decided to make the last, longer arm working outwards from the center.

The 'Star' Milanese braid I chose for the center of the arms looked good in the book, but I was disappointed how much like simple spiders it turned out to be when I replaced an edge twist with more passives.  Originally I had designed a Bedfordshire style tally and buds motif for the infill and I wish I had kept to that. 

Working the ribs of the center flower motif proved interesting to say the least!  The petals carried, threw out and added so many pairs I was impressed that it kept it's shape.  The ribs were created by twisting the worker, cloth stitch through the center plait, round the pin on the other side and cloth stitch back to the trail. When the tip of the petal had been made,  the worker sewed into the waiting thread at the pin and carried on.  This gave me the chevron shape I wanted using only one worker pair, without having to use plaits. 

The Cluny style quadrants can be left off, they don't affect the making of the main cross.  I started working the plaited quadrants by adding pairs on both sides of the first (top) arm.  This laid up a lot of waiting bobbins when it came to starting the two side arms because only part of the quadrant could be made if l wanted to take the threads  into the edge trail. On the third quadrant, I decided not to add the pairs for the quadrants as I worked the lower edge of the previous arm, but to add them when there was enough of the new arm to throw the pairs out into. 

The final quadrant I only added after the last arm had been made long enough to fit it on.  This turned out to be the easiest of the three ways I tried and I will be a lot happier adding frilly insets after the main body is made in future.

Fortunately, the way I had drawn the quadrants enabled me to 'bounce' the plaits off the cross itself and tie off the ends inside the tallies, along plaits and the final ones I either tied and sewed in.  Two of the tallies had to be plaited on the back to make the design work so this dictated that there was a right and wrong side to the lace.  

To avoid joins in the half stitch of the trefoil edge passives (5 passive pairs, center pair worked in half stitch), I started the first three arms at the tips, and worked to the center.  I worked the forth, longer arm in the opposite direction, toward the trefoil. 

The final join had to be moved so it didn't spoil the tip of the trefoil so I left the bobbins of one side just where the Milanese braid joins a small trail.  I worked around from the other side, adding the tally pairs and working the square trail.  At the half way point, I made the center crossing and started throwing out the tally pairs into the trail as I worked back to the waiting bundle of bobbins.

Now I have tried it, I will make more use of adding sections after the main body of a design is made.  Previous work has seen me with up to 130 pairs piled up at each side of my work!  

My thanks go out to lace makers who put their videos out, help with questions in the internet groups and offer guidance in the online group meetings, nearly every time, I learn something new and my problem solving has more solutions. 




Angel Wings Butterfly (made in two different ways)

Created as a butterfly, I wonder if the wings would work on their own, stiffened and attached to a figurine, maybe making an angel, or a fairy?

This 2020 pattern was made to practice tallies and experiment with variegated thread. This extravagant butterfly gave me plenty of practice and I was glad to finish it! 


Start with two small tallies and work plaits to create the antennae.  Add 2 pairs at the top of the head as a worker and a passive and take in the two plaits to form the head.  Work the thorax in half stitch, or cloth stitch with twists to widen the ground. The first and last pairs are worked in cloth stitch.  Add two pairs at each pin down one side.   

Add 2 pairs at the top of the head as a worker and a passive and take in the two plaits to form the head. 

Work the thorax in half stitch, or cloth stitch with twists to widen the ground. The first and last pairs are worked in cloth stitch.  Add two pairs at each pin down one side.  

When I made this butterfly originally, I added the pairs onto both sides as I worked the body.  This created a large bundle of bobbins which did not need until I had finished the first side.  In hindsight, I should have sewn in the second side after I had completed the first side. 

Another option is to make the body first by adding an extra two pairs for a two pair edge (pin under 4) and making a rolled edge (a Honiton method) then sewing the wing pairs in as I needed them. The body can be made in a variety of stitches.

Each plait needs two pairs adding.  Working away from the body, more plaits are added to the wings.  The picots on the windmill crossings were worked one pair before the windmill, one after.  This can be replaced by the Honiton method featured in 'Blossom' ground. 

The non tally plaits crossing the wings are taken back and forth, crossing the trail worked between the two wings, then carried along with the passives at the outer edges until they work back across both wings to the other outer edge.  

On the last section of tallies, the biggest boxes, an extra two plaits in variegated thread are added.  These two pairs make the extra tallies which zig zag through the final two tallies and create a need for an 8 pair crossing. 

While working the last row of boxes with the extra tallies, the middle tally, which has come from the body, is taken into the edge (or tied off if you wish).

The nipped in point between the two wings is where you can finish by sewing the larger wing's edge into the smaller wing edge. The trail between the wings  continues working around the outer edge of the smaller wing to join at the sharp point. 

I asked another lace maker to try out this pattern, and, with only the pricking, this beautifully graduated was made.  Sybille Zapf made this in a completely different way to me, using the European style tape lace methods rather than the Bedfordshire methods which I use.  This method meant far fewer bobbins were used at any time, and control over colours and remembering what goes where is improved. 





The outlines were made first, with the strands of tallies and plaits worked by adding then taken out by tying off into the edge trails.  This method is more forgiving in using strong colours which one would not want to have to add into the trails to remove. 

A wonderful use of fine wire used by Sybille in the antennae and around the edges and body made the butterfly poseable when taken off the pillow.  A great idea which really brings the lace alive when mounted.

An A4 pdf is available from the Files on my FB page 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/907516516997481/


These need to print at A4. If your printer decides otherwise, down load the .pdf mentioned above. 



Giraffes - A Milanese Lace Challenge -New Giraffes added as they are made.

The online bobbin lace group I enjoy socializing and learning with has chosen this rather sweet pattern of 11 giraffes made in Milanese Lace.  This is a bobbin lace which uses few bobbins, usually a dozen pairs give or take a few.  


The swirls and interlocking ribbons of the designs marry with the precise, geometric patterns to create some of the most fluid and beautiful modern pieces of lace I have ever seen.  I wanted to use Milanese Braids very early on in my lace journey and have only now started to approach them and these little sampler bands working with 11 different Milanese braids are an ideal introduction. 

Giraffe 1

The first little giraffe started fine, a bit of double edging and cloth stitch for the head to get the confidence up, then into a relatively simple, straight edged band of 'Lotus'. So far so good. 

Here is the playlist of the 5 youtube videos I made to help our Bobbin Lace Along facebook zoom group.   

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtaX_I87zRKWuzSJOWTQ1fhYMYTvV8D6B&si=zhBkAaniGapKNjO2

ttp://www.kantmetklossennl/ http://www.kantmetklossen.nl/



Bonny Van Bergan kindly donated this pattern for free and it is in the 'Files' tab in the 'Bobbin Lace Along' facebook group, her other lovely patterns are available from   h

https://www.kantmetklossen.nl/op-het-land

Giraffe 2

The second giraffe proved a little more difficult.  We had to learn how to make a Milanese scroll to make the head bend at the neck.  The 'Fish number 1' braid was easy enough to make but I made a mistake when drawing out my own, narrower version for making the video.  I have marked on the diagram below, the two twists I missed off my little sample pattern, but on the video I corrected it as I made it.   I made the 20 minute video in one take (I don't do editing), so I just made a note in the comments and carried on. 

The more I learn, the less I feel I know about this delicate and challenging fibre art. 


https://youtu.be/c7v0fdOkWyU?si=ccSf04gb-rCQwyN_




Giraffe 3

To be continued...

Larger loop for picots.

Different ways of making a larger loop for picots.

The Bobbin Lace Along FB group are making Bonny Van Bergan's Milanese lace 'Family of Giraffes' as a group learning experience. The giraffe horns are created by making a particularly large, round picot. This lead to some discussion about how these can be made.



The options were:- a thick divider pin, four standard pins tight together, a standard pin with a bugle bead on, and to wrap paper around pearl head pins.
My thoughts: The divider pin is ideal, but is most likely to leave a hole in fabric/foam pillows.
Cluster of standard pins, not really a round shape, may leave a hole.
Bugle bead, ideal if you buy the good ones with heat smoothed ends, the cheap ones (like the one I tried) have sharp, uneven ends and I would worry about cutting the thread if it slid underneath.
Paper wrapped pearl pins. A half inch strip of paper at the top of the pin. I used the scissorribbon method for curling the paper to start, double sided sticky tape to fix and roll up with one sided sticky tape on the outside. Pushed into the pillow, these were the best option, and can be made to fit any size needed. The pins will be covered in sticky residue if the paper is pulled off so best to make a couple and keep them for this purpose.

The pattern for the giraffes is available as a free download in the 'Files' tab of the Bobbin Lace Along facebook group.