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'Foggy' takes his first wobbly steps.
Asymmetrical Spider - pattern and workings.
I remade this Torchon style spider bookmark which I designed early on in my bobbin lace making journey and found that I still enjoyed a bit of Torchon after neglecting it for a few years in favour of Bedfordshire and Cluny type laces.
This little pattern uses asymmetrical blocks in different sizes. Each block can have any treatment, I used rose ground in one of the blocks and a single rose in one of the smaller blocks. This could easily have been worked by using the blocks just as samples of grounds in place of spiders.
The edge involves carrying pairs as the sides zig zag in and out,but this doesn't affect the number of pairs throughout the whole length of the bookmark. Using 6 pairs of passives to allow for three pairs down each side, the total number of pairs is 19 depending on what thickness of fancy thread you choose for the passives, and which edge stitch you choose.
You can use any 'start at a point' you like, there are many to choose from.
I did it this way. Hang 2 pairs of workers open and twist one side twice.
Place a temp pin below the top pin and hang 6 pairs open. These are the passives.
Work one pair of workers through one side of the passives. Repeat on other side.
In the centre, cloth stitch and twist the two worker pairs under the temp pin in the middle. Work back to the outside edges on both sides. Work the outside pin on each side.
Work back to the first proper inside pin with both workers, here you can cross the two worker pairs around the pin, or use the same pin twice. Continue to work down the sides, adding the pairs needed for the first spider. The temp pin can be left in place.
The outside points do take a bit of work to keep the passives tucked up to the very corner of the point as they want to gravitate to the inside pin when tensioned, so I used a Honiton technique where, after working the pin, I made a single overhand knot after the first, and sometimes after the second pairs of passives too. These knots help to restrain the passives to the point when tensioning further down the sides.
When the edges turn centerward, the passives from the spider legs have no pin to go to, they get worked alongside the passives for a short distance till you need them again. This makes the passive trail a bit thicker around the inside bends but they snuggle up and soon go back into the pattern.
Working the final edge trails on the last big spider, the legs get taken into the passive trail. There are too many to carry without a strange, thick edge being made so it's time to throw some pairs out.
When you have 5 pairs of passives in the trail, choose two alternate bobbins, not side by side ones, and lift them up and away from your work. So this on both sides. Don't cut them off yet.
To choose the right pair, use threads away from the edge where you are taking spider legs into the trail. Don't choose the very outside thread.
Lift your chosen bobbin and look underneath the thread, if you see the worker going sideways underneath, pick the next bobbin to it, look underneath and you will notice that it lifts the worker lying on top of it, this is the thread to throw out. Pick the next alternate thread and both will have the worker going over the top.
When you get to where the final trails meet, divide the threads into two sides, choose a worker bobbin from each side and tie a knot. Lift the bobbin bundle from each side in turn , (there is no need to keep these bobbins in any order so just grab them) and pass a worker around a bundle and lay back in the center, repeat on other side. Tie a knot in the workers.
Now the fun bit...
*Lift the left worker and pass around the right bundle, lift the right worker and pass around the left bundle, cross the two workers in the middle*. Repeat from*to * for however long you want the double whipping to be. Tension and push up the workers every few turns. Knot the workers at the centre to end it.
Thread both workers onto a sewing needle and sew from above the knot, through the middle of a bundle. This will anchor the worker threads and stop them sticking out from the knot. Cut the free threads of the tail to desired length.
There will be a video on my Youtube channel on choosing threads for throwing outs, the start at a point, and the two sided whipped tail.
Sequin Seahorse
I experimented with adding as many sequins as I could on my 'Adventurous Seahorse' design which is part of the 'Adventurous Aquarium' series of gifted patterns.
The idea for this collection of seaweed, fish, seahorses etc was to create pieces to follow on from the famous 'Springetts Snake' which introduces a selection of techniques in a wriggley snake shape.
When I think of a new technique, or fun way to bring lace to young person's attention as a form of art, I try to make the things that would have got my attention as an enthusiastic youngling crafter. There is no right or wrong in the finished piece, only enjoyment and a hope that by encouraging young and new bobbin lace makers, lace can take it's place as a more mainstream craft, protecting it for the years to come.
For the pattern, see earlier posts on this blog, or visit my Lesley's Lace Group on facebook where the patterns are under the 'Files' tab.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/907516516997481/
'N'
Another letter for my lace alphabet. This one is heavy on the seed beading.
To allow for sewing into the bars of the edge with the green thread, I reversed the pattern. I also experimented with different scroll techniques which I really need to practice!
Celtic Art Nouveau
Mixing art styles as well as lace techniques, this design features Honiton 4 and 5 pin holes and Blossom ground. A little sprinkle of Bedfordshire tally sprays and spiders, a touch of Muaiga magic and that's all there is to it!
A beautifully grained black walnut bowl provides the background, even though it does distort the lace a bit, well worth showing off such a lovely thing.
This piece was made with six groups of bobbins, each of the three leaf tips started working in both directions. For this I used a white Empress Egyptian machine quilting thread at around 28 wraps per centimeter, similar to DMC 80.
There were a lot of throwing out and throwing back in threads, so very hard to estimate the number of bobbins used in total, used around a caseful and a bit, so maybe about the 70 to 80 pair region.
The amount of over and underlaid crossings was fiddley, a lot of fine crochet hook work. I used a non rotating pillow for a change and really missed being able to turn the pillow a bit to get the tensions under control a bit better.
This is my original design which I painted onto slate quite a few years ago. The crossings were much easier to paint than to make in lace!
Wriggley Ribbon
Although originally designed as more seaweed for the Adventurous Aquarium series, I found this pattern was very handy for experimenting with in little sections of the ribbon like design to test colours, adding other craft materials and making demo videos.
Tally making for painful hands.
A question from a lacemaker who was struggling to learn how to make tallies because of the arthritis in her hands made me think about how I sometimes have to alter my way of making them when my poor old hands are too painful to use.
Holding the spread of the passives under tension is key to shaping the tally when working on a flat pillow with Midlands (spangled) bobbins. The 'roll in hand' method using continental bobbins on bolster pillows may be easier but I use neither of these.
This little video shows how I alternate with using the side of each hand with only one hand tensioning the worker and it's partner. This method rests each hand in turn and does make tallies that little bit less painful.
Of course, once the warmer weather kicks in, and old bones warm up and respond more eagerly to lace making, tallies are added to the menu again and I jump back into making my favourite Cluny and Bedfordshire laces which are often full of tallies.
Block Pillow multi works in progress
I created several different shape blocks for different projects, my favourite being discs which l can turn as l work on small floral or tape laces without turning the pillow and disturbing my pin cushion etc.
Putting aside one project to work on another always means having to store a pillow somewhere else, this is made so much easier by simply just removing the block with the work on, and replacing it for another project.
This little video shows how l manage my work, and how you don't always need lots of pillows for different classes/projects being worked at the same time.
Painted Adventurous Seahorse.
Experimenting with my pattern for the Adventurous Seahorse, I changed the thread to white 28wpc Egyptian Cotton and increased the number of pairs used in the body as well as working a plait and picot zigzag along the back.
I kept the pattern very plain so I could see how/if the Inktense block paint would run and blend. My previous experiments using the Inktense blocks worked well, but I wanted to see if it could be used for a full piece, rather than just spot colour on a finished piece of lace.
Made in white specifically for painting. |
I risked applying the paint while the lace was still on the pricking. No colour was visible on the back of the pricking thank goodness, and the pins were wiped clean and dry as soon as possible.
This time, I used a larger brush and loaded it up with more paint. This resulted in quite a strong colour being taken, despite the dilution. Strangely enough, despite the extra amount of paint, the colours didn't always penetrate the full thickness and at the back of the piece, some white thread was still visible and the colours were paler.
The finished piece is painted while still on the pricking/pillow |
To dry the piece of lace, I laid it onto a piece of kitchen roll, covered it with more kitchen roll and then ironed it till dry. This helped to fix the paint, and also to keep the lace in shape as it would have curled and warped left to dry on its own.
I have previously handwashed a piece of Honiton lace I made, using the same thread and it ironed dry a little paler, but still coloured. This piece, with the delicate zigzags, may not appreciate being washed so I am not going to wash this one. It is for decorative, rather than wearing purposes.
A touch of variegation. |
I maybe didn't make the most of the colours, I had intended to use paler jades, turquoise and pinks in more splotchy areas but the paint seemed to grab very quickly. I suspect a much more diluted mix is needed.
The coloured stripes could have easily been created using coloured passive threads with more control, however, this piece was primarily an experiment and it does sit very nicely with the other Adventurous Aquarium pieces.
See my earlier posts for the free pattern for the Adventurous Seahorse and other Adventurous Aquarium patterns.
Paint used is Derwent Inktense Block paints.
A Llacey Llama
Yes, I do know llama is pronounced 'yama', but in UK we pronounce it with an 'L'. However, I could have used 'Llummy Llama' as a title which would be pronounced 'yummy yama'!😀
I suppose this could be called a multi media piece of bobbin lace. Not only does it draw from a variety of bobbins lace making styles, it also uses paint, embroidery and tassel making.
I used an Ecru coloured thread, slightly thicker than I use to make my first pieces. This meant that the piece was larger to work on. It only just fitted on the disc block of my pillow, part of one foot had to be made in the air which is a whole new way of making lace!
This piece was turned over before painting and adding tassels because there were a lot of threads thrown out along the top of the blanket. The bead for the eye happily popped through the half stitch to change sides.
This is fresh from unpinning, showing the disc block it was made on.
These are the paints I use to colour the lace. To get lighter colours, simply dilute more. These blocks don't seem to penetrate the thread and run, so they are ideal for small areas. They also didn't show as strong on the reverse. The paints were handy to even out the colours along the top of the blanket where the ecru passives and workers were tinted to match the bands of different colour threads.
The final, and trickiest bit was making the tiny tassells for its head and the blanket edge. I used leftover thread and sewed the tassel to the lace. On the face, I embroidered chain stitch to make it's halter with the same thread as the tassel.
Tiny Honeycomb Heart
I originally designed this little heart to use up the threads left on my bobbins after making larger patterns. It soon became a project in it's own right when l used different fillings, passive stitches, edges and threads. Keeping to the same 4cm outline pricking, it became a handy way of experimenting with different ways to fill a small, curved shape.
Test before Investing in a Bolster Pillow
I drew a quick tester pattern for using the two pairs of bobbins I have, this was just to see how they handled.
They behaved quite well. Keeping track of 4 bobbins was easy enough. The creases on the edge of the roll worked to hold the bobbins when I placed them over the sides.
Shivery Squirrel
Single thread Picot Video
Single Thread Picot on YouTube
I made this video to remind myself a much as anything. A couple of times I have had to look up, or ask how to make, these little picots!
These single thread picots are very handy when making a plait which needs to stay in a curved shape ( a two thread picot usually gives a sharp bend to a plait). Also used for making crescent leaf tallies, and can be used multiple times along a plait without creating much disturbance to the appearance of the plait. When using thick thread, a two pair picot will be quite a large one. The single thread picot can be used around a fine pin, and doesn't need the twists to make it work as only one thread goes around the pin.
Single thread picot are handy when using thicker thread to avoid a large picot made when using the two loop method. Although this produces a single thread loop, two threads are used. patterns available at https://www.youtube.com/@LesleysLace https//www.facebook.com/lesleyfw
https://youtu.be/P--z4h_GRL0?si=T13_8HNZkJbvL10a
Warm Coat and Hat
Just for fun, I recreated this little Christmas tree decoration in lace.
Dipping a toe into the world of tape laces, I made a tester piece before trying out a design of my own. There is a bit of 'Muaiga' lace involved, as there usually is when I make a piece of lace! (Made Up As I Go Along)
The 'wriggle' I drew freehand.
The main technique, I think, is to work the curves without pins on the inside, using turning stitches instead. This means the tensions have to be kept under control or the curves soon become uneven.
The curves are held in place with edge stitches being twisted around pins halfway between the outer and the nearest other edge pin. This is done in advance and picked up when the other side of the join is working an edge stitch to sew into the waiting one.
Because of the multiple twists, and the longer length of the loop, this is much easier to sew into than a standard edge hole. I used both crochet hook and eyes out tool, both worked as easily as each other.
The main difficulty with this wriggly style lace is to keep the pins already in the work covered while the pattern is turned around many times, keeping the tape facing downwards maintain tension.
The hands and feet are made with leaf tallies using the two edge pairs. They work out as a tally, then turn with a cloth stitch around the pin, and work a plait back to the edge. Work a cloth stitch around the same pin, then continue working.
At the edge of the hat, having worked the first two rows, I used two passives in a plait to join the second row to the first. Work through the passives and back to get the worker higher up the edge and work half stitch with extra pairs added along the edge of the brim. At the far side, add 4 pairs, this is 3 passives and an extra worker pair to make the two pair edge.
Tie a knot at the top, cut and leave a tassel. I
This is an experimental piece, being my first in this style of lace, so there will be much better solutions for some of the workarounds I have used. There is so very much to learn! I perused Idrija lace to find some of the techniques and, in time, will have a better understanding of this versatile lace.
Mad Calm Quilt
Sequin Fish
The Adventurous Aquarium is growing!
This fish sparkles with sequins, beads and thread, there should be enough glitter for the magpie in all of us!
I chose to make a chevron edge on this version of the Sequin fish but the chevron can easily be replaced with adding extra passive pairs, sparkly ones would be good.
I chose silver sequins and I worked them with 4 pairs of Gütermann silver glitter thread. When adding the sequins, the pairs from each side do not cross over each other in the middle. Work them with one pair at a time. The left pair sews through the centre, then returns to the left side, and the right to the right. Place a pin in the centre of the sequin so the tensioning of the sequin thread does not disturb the equal distribution of the sequins. On a larger area of sequin ground, this is quite important.
4 pairs of silver for adding the sequins (when cut off, they are reused for the tail sequins so wrap more thread on one bobbin than the other).
4 pairs of Perle 8 in two contrasting colours for the chevrons. Simply increase the passives if you don't want to do the chevrons.
6 short pairs to add in for the passives in the fins.
4 pairs passives (placed on each side of the chevron threads)
4 pairs of workers.
There are tutorials for the chevron edge, adding sequins and beads on my youTube channel.
https://www.youtube.com/@LesleysLace/
Triangle Tree
Another pattern to play with. I used honeycomb for the filling with two twists throughout the ground. You could work this without the twists around the pin, and add sequins or larger beads. I used a thicker thread and made the passives quite tight to make the edges stiffer. Using a neutral ecru thread for the two pair edge to avoid interfering with the ombre effect of the three green shades of the passives.
Roseground Bracelet
Leaf Tally Fish
Leaf Tally Fish, a new addition to the Adventurous Aquarium. Print out at A4. Add pairs for the fins and for the inside edge passives of the tail. I use mostly Egyptian cotton, machine quilting thread in a variety of colours. They measure about 27 to 30 wraps per centimeter.
The leaf tallies can be replaced with a standard crossing of plaits, or make a small half stitch or cloth stitch bud (circle) in the middle where the threads would normally cross. This is a good way to make patterns where the amount of leaf tallies puts you off, the 'bud' works with pairs or plaits entering it. You can see how this works in the little fish I made to use up some thread ends.
Video on how to measure wraps per centimeter and my other video tutorials here... https://www.youtube.com/@LesleysLace/